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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.